Free small purse crochet pattern - Angela phone pouch
This is a sweet sister pattern to my Meredith Festival Bag, a purse with compartments. The same delicate picot edging and Herringbone Half Double Crochet are used on both patterns, but this one is more compact. It also features an optional cash/ID pocket that is attached to the back wall to keep those small items handy and secure. It should fit phones up to 6.5" tall including case/cover.
It's a one skein make (for most cotton yarns), and super popular with my daughter's friends (the 11-14 age group). If you can’t start today, pin the below image for later!
There is also a low-cost, ad-free version of this pattern available here in my shop.
*Some of the links in this blog may be affiliate links, which means if you shop through the link, I make a small commission at no additional cost to you*
Supplies:
H (5mm) crochet hook (link to my favorite ergo set!)
105 yards of 100% cotton or cotton blend yarn, worsted (4) weight (I used WeCrochet Dishie) - you may need a little more depending on your chosen strap length
7/8" or 1" button or toggle
Sewing needle & thread
Measuring tape/ruler
Skill Level: Perfect for advanced beginners and up! This pattern uses the Herringbone Half Double Crochet stitch as well as chaining and slip stitches.
Language/Terms: English/US Terms
Finished measurements: 6.5” H x 4.75" W excluding strap
Gauge: Work up the first 13 rows of the body of the bag. 17 HHDC sts x 13 rows = 4.5" wide x 4" tall
Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
HHDC = Herringbone Half Double Crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
sts = stitches
sk = skip
* * = repeat instructions between the asterisks as many times as directed
Just a quick note about the Dishie yarn - it slides like butter over my crochet hook. No joke. I have crocheted with a ton of different cotton and cotton blend yarns and this one is definitely on the softer end and glides along. It's the opposite of a hand buster - so much better than other cotton yarns that strain my hands and wrists. WeCrochet has free shipping over $35 every day!
Before we get into the pattern, just a little reminder there is a low price, ad-free PDF version available in my shop & on Ravelry and Ribblr.
Quick Stitch Tutorial: Herringbone Half Double Crochet
Yarn over, insert hook into stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop (you should now have 3 loops on your hook). Pull newest loop through second loop on hook (you may have to twist your hook downward to accomplish this). Yarn over and pull through both loops left on hook.
Instructions
Main Body of Bag:
Ch 18. Tip: If you tend to chain loosely or tightly, go up or down a hook size to avoid large gaps or bunching.
Row 1: HHDC in 2nd ch from hook and in every ch across. Turn. (17 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1. HHDC in first st and every st across. Turn. (17 sts)
Rows 3-44: Repeat Row 2. Put a st marker on the end of row 42. You should have about 14.25" in length at this point.
Row 45: Ch 1. HHDC in second st (sk 1st st). HHDC across until 2 sts left. Sk 2nd to last st, HHDC in last st. Turn. (15 sts)
Rows 46-48: Repeat row 45. On row 48, place st marker in 5th st. (9 sts)
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Creating Front/Back Panels:
Lay your main body panel with the decrease rows at the top, furthest away from you. Grab the bottom corners and fold up to just below the row with the st marker at the end (row 42). There should be 2 rows of full HHDC showing (before the decrease rows begin). Match up bumps on the edges as best you can. Place st markers at the top corners of the portion you folded up through to back panel on both sides to hold it in place, as well as a few down the side (you can re-use the one from row 42). You should have about 6.75” from the bottom of the bag to top of new front panel. This should leave about 2.25” of flap showing above.
Seaming Sides:
Start with front panel facing you, join yarn to left side of bag at the top corner where front and back panel meet. Ch 1. Sl st evenly down the left side through single loops of each panel (front and back). It will have a nice braided effect. Remove st markers as you go. TIP: If your sl sts are too tight and your bag is bunching up a bit on the sides, switch to a larger hook or space sts out more and try again.
Make sure the front part of the bag is facing you when working either seam so that the sl st braid is showing on the front. Fasten off at the bottom corner. Then, join yarn to bottom right corner of bag. Ch 1. Working up the right side, sl st evenly again through both panels to join them. Fasten off. Weave in ends on both sides.
Flap trim:
With front of bag facing you, join yarn on right side at bottom of flap just above where panels joined together. Sc in same st. Sc evenly around flap edge to the other side, move st marker up. Turn. (27 sts; 13 sts on either side of marked st)
Ch 1. Sl st in second st from hook (sk 1st st). Ch 2 and sl st into same st again. First picot made! *Sl st in next 2 sts, ch 2, sl st in same st* to marked st. Remove st marker. Sl st into marked st and then ch 6 (for a ⅞” button) or 7 (for a 1” button). Sl st into same st. Make sure your button or toggle fits through, adjust ch count as needed. Continue to make picots *sl st in next 2 sts, ch 2, sl st in same st,* and then one more sl st to end. Do not fasten off.
Flap trim:
With front of bag facing you, join yarn on right side at bottom of flap just above where panels joined together. Sc in same st. Sc evenly around flap edge to the other side, move st marker up. Turn. (27 sts; 13 sts on either side of marked st)
Ch 1. Sl st in second st from hook (sk 1st st). Ch 2 and sl st into same st again. First picot made! *Sl st in next 2 sts, ch 2, sl st in same st* to marked st. Remove st marker. Sl st into marked st and then ch 6 (for a ⅞” button) or 7 (for a 1” button). Sl st into same st. Make sure your button or toggle fits through, adjust ch count as needed. Continue to make picots *sl st in next 2 sts, ch 2, sl st in same st,* and then one more sl st to end. Do not fasten off.
Strap:
Ch 140 (or any even number). This will be the length of your strap (it may shrink up a bit if you use tight tension). Being careful not to twist your chain, join with sl st on the opposite side where the top of the front panel meets the back panel. When you sl st, go through at least 2 loops on the body of the bag at the same time to secure it with more strength. Now you will work another row onto the strap, working in the back bumps of the chain. Turn. Ch 1. Sl st into back bump of next ch st (sk bump closest to hook). *ch 2. Sl st in same st, sl st in next 2 sts.* Repeat from * to * across to the end of strap. Fasten off, weave in ends. I like to use weaving in as an opportunity to secure straps to body with even more support.
Cash/card pocket (optional):
Ch 12.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook. Sc across to end. Turn. (11 sts)
Rows 2-16: Ch 1. Sc across to end. Turn. (11 sts)
Your pocket should be about 3" wide by 4" tall. You can adjust the stitch or row count to get to this desired size.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Turn your pouch inside out and decide on pocket placement on back panel, with vertical orientation. I placed the bottom of the pocket about 1.5" from the bottom of the pouch. Using a whip stitch, attach the pocket to the back panel of your pouch, going down one side, across the bottom and up the other side, leaving the top open. Fasten off, weave in all ends. Turn pouch right side out.
Adding button/toggle:
Fold flap down and decide on the placement of button/toggle to front panel. Make sure it's exactly in the middle horizontally by measuring. Sew button or toggle on with sewing needle and thread.
Congratulations! You have finished your Angela Phone Pouch!
I would absolutely love to see your bag - use #angelaphonepouch and tag me @icrochetsohard on Instagram & Facebook! Leave me a comment letting me know what you think of this pattern :)
If you love your phone pouch, try the Meredith Festival Bag! It's a divided purse perfect for concerts, day trips and more. Check out #meredithfestivalbag on Instagram for more photos
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